Electric Fans info

[hattrick]

Just a quick update for those out there who may have been waiting to see if the TriPac solution worked. The new relay and fuse components have now been on my truck for almost 3 months and we have had 16 days at or above 100 degrees here in DFW. Both fans are still working great and I have not any issues.

[haulin S331]

HATTRICK A BIG THANKS goes out to you for taking the time out , and using your S331 for the update on the fans, I have not had any trouble with mine using the relay update. Haulin S331.

[Saleen190]

Originally Posted by haulin S331

HATTRICK A BIG THANKS goes out to you for taking the time out , and using your S331 for the update on the fans, I have not had any trouble with mine using the relay update. Haulin S331.

Mine are still alive and kicking as well!!!

[331Dave325]

Anyone know if the wiring harness for the e-fans on Ebay is the same as the original harness, or one that was intended to solve the e-fan wiring problem?

[rmehuron]

I've read through this thread and done some research. Thanks for the great information - I too am impressed that Tripac took the time to investigate a SALEEN issue. You may have seen my other thread about a high output alternator, etc which still did not solve the problem. My relays and fuses have yet to fail, I am just trying to rid the truck of the tremendous power load when the fans kick on. 30amps each for the fans is a rediculous amount of current! Its no wonder why we are having these issues as a 60 amp "shock" to the system is difficult to handle! Sounds like the best solution is to replace the fans with another setup. Before doing this I am going to break down the wiring schematic this weekend and see if I can lesson the amp draw by using heavier guage wiring and different relays. It would also help to route the ground directly to the battery and not the firewall.

I havent completely looked at the setup yet, but it may be advantagous to use two relays and use the controller simply to activate the relays instead of having the battery power run through it to the primary fan. If these controllers are not made to handle the amperage it would do nothing but decrease the voltage to the system, hence leading to a spike in amps (V=IR). I am curious to see what the voltage drop is across the Spal controller. If they are already wired up to two separate relays then the current draw of the fans may simply be too much for our systems. Too bad there wasnt a way to wire them where they turn on at 1/2 speed intially and increase to full speed after 10sec or so to lesson the initial burden on the system. Who knows, regardless its become a nice "winter project"

[gomez331sc]

i as of yet havent had any issues,except for the great draw when the fans kick in (only have 10K an away for the snow season) but have been waiting to hear fo something that is gonna fix this issue. ill keep reading on. thanks guys.

[Saleen190]

Rmehuron, I can save you a ton of trouble. I have the shematics already drawn up for the fan systems from the work we all did trying to fix this issue. Shoot me an email address and I can get you all the information we have on the whole fan set up. Could save you alot of time and trouble. Saleen190@yahoo.com

[haulin S331]

And there still working with the new relay set up & wiring thanks to the man HATTRICK. Haulin S331.

[rmehuron]

Originally Posted by Saleen190

Rmehuron, I can save you a ton of trouble. I have the shematics already drawn up for the fan systems from the work we all did trying to fix this issue. Shoot me an email address and I can get you all the information we have on the whole fan set up. Could save you alot of time and trouble. Saleen190@yahoo.com

Thanks, I'll send you an email. I glanced through the system this weekend to discover that they already wired the relays in the fashion I was planning, so no luck there. I also noticed that they used 40amp fuses in my setup. Here is what I did:

-Added a 4 gauge feed line from alternator to the battery
-Directly gounded the alternator with a 4g ground wire to the battery
-Directly grounded the fans to the negative terminal on the battery
-Added HID headlights (less power draw at 35 watts) - directly wired to the battery with relay.
-Optima yellow top
-200 amp alternator w/ smaller pulley

In the end, the truck does not "bog" anymore when the fans kick on/off. Also, the headlights do not "flicker". The only symptom that remains is that the dash lights will "slightly" dim when they kick on. However, it is a 80% improvement from before - hardly noticable.

[Maverick2004054]

I've just recently started having problems with my fans, about 15,000 miles on my truck now. After towing my jetskiis I found that they stopped working, Checked the fuses and found both of them blown, The ones in there were 40 Amps too. I replaced them with 40 Amp fuses, but now they are "Short Cycling" Not sure if the temperature is set correctly on the controller, anyone know what the cut in and cut out temperatures are? I believe mine is set to 190*F for the Low and 220*F for the High Set Point. Below is the link to the instruction manual from SPAL if people are still having problems, I think my only problem right now is the wrong settings on the Controller. I plan on trying a Direct Replacement 35A Relay, just havent had the time to get to the parts store with work. Also if you read the manual, When the Controller hits the low set point only one fan will turn on, the other will start when the Engine Coolant Temperature Reaches the High Set Point or Both will turn on when the Air Compressor Cycles On. So in theory if your engine temp never reaches the high value, you technically are only using one fan, unless you have the A/C on. http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/FAN-PWM_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

[Maverick2004054]

OK, I really need help..... No one has responded since my last post and I still cannot figure out why my SPAL controller will not accept the temperature programming that I have it set up for. I've tried everything from a 10* Difference to a 60* difference between the high and low. If anyone still has this setup, can some one PLEASE find out at what temps the fans are kicking in at without the AC on? I have been using the monitor program on my programmer to watch the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) to program the Fan Controller, but the program wont stay saved.... I am trying to get it back to the Stock settings which never failed in the first place, I just blew a fuse. Thanks and I appreciate your help.

[rmehuron]

So I redid my whole controller setup. the spal basically stopped working. I called spal and of course they said that their unit was NOT designed to work with the 5.4L sensors! Good research saleen. I see that they installed a second relay up front to use the spal controller as a relay kicker. Here's what I did.....rewired the system with two spal relays and used a Dakota Digital PAC 2700 controller with a separate sensor. I tapped the sensor in the supercharger crossover bar. Presto!! Works like it should!