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1994-1998 Saleen Mustang For the SN-95 platform. Be sure to specify year, model and equipment if asking for help.

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  #1  
Old 07-12-2012
adam dawson adam dawson is offline
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Default s281 98-0048 THE BUILD turbo pi irs swap

hey guys guess this will be my build thread, here is what im starting with..
http://saleenforums.soec.org/showthr...86050#poststop




so im keeping it white, keeping the body stock but i have plenty in store for it.
ok, one thing that sucks is one of the front lemans wheels has some rash on the edge..... and it has a small bend in it on the inside. a bit of a flat spot.



so the lemans wheels are getting stacked and stored...

and my fr500s are going on...



my car was missing a few decals like the windshield banner, so i put on a silver saleen shadowbox decal. i really like the decal but it seems to almost disappear in the window, especially on this color car....would be sick on black.
i might keep it for a bit but am leaning towards putting on a standard one.


other missing decals


Last edited by adam dawson; 07-12-2012 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 07-12-2012
adam dawson adam dawson is offline
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i have a keanan hood that should be here any minute to replace the flat stocker,
while im waiting for it im gonna start the irs swap.
through the magic of the internet, i tracked down all the stuff to do it except for what needs to be done with the brake lines and what parts needed are very vauge.
so for anybody needing the info, here you go.

SN-95 mustang irs swap parts needed
complete irs setup, the 03/04 cobras are the best ones.
irs exhaust obviously (you probably need to shorten your flow tubes)
if using an 03/04 setup you need a different driveshaft pinion yoke
ford part F65Z-4782-AA
precision 448 u joint (its a 1330/1350)
the brake parts, i found all of this easily at pep boys after spending a whole day going to every single hydraulics store in town.
got 2 30 inch sections of 3/16th steel hardline (tag says euro) that already have the proper bubble flare you need where it meets the soft line for the caliper. it also has the proper fitting for the brake soft line already on. sweet. easy.
also get 3 3/16 tube line fittings and a 3/16 brake "t" (they have the flare inside of them)
here are some pics to help guide you, this is everything you need. dont forget you will need a tubing cutter and a double flare tool so you can flare the lines for the tee.


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  #3  
Old 11-20-2012
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OxfordS281 OxfordS281 is offline
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nice build
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  #4  
Old 12-07-2012
adam dawson adam dawson is offline
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ok time to update, ive done a lot to the car and will update more soon.
since im swapping in the irs in a sn95 you have to do some brake line cutting,flaring, adding a t, and making some hard lines to the calipers. basically converting from a 3 channel to a 4 channel.

exhaust out of the way. i plan on cutting the machine gun tips off and blending them into the irs exhaust then get it all polished up.

irs cradle freshly painted with ftbr subframe bushings

ford racing cover installed on diff and a box full of bushings. i bought the entire ftbr catalog for this. ready to put back together.not pictured but i also put in a frpp alum driveshaft too.

toe links

all ready

old solid rear out...

irs going in...

and installed with h&r race springs,powerstop rotors and pads...

using a magnaflow exhaust but is temporary till i modify it.

on the ground. you can also see the led third brake light i put in. i also put in seq. turn signals.



Last edited by adam dawson; 12-09-2012 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 12-09-2012
hennie hennie is offline
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have you taken it on the road yet? if so how does it feel?

Hennie
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  #6  
Old 12-09-2012
adam dawson adam dawson is offline
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i only had put about 50-75 miles on it with the irs setup and that was to make sure everything was working correctly like the brakes and such. making sure i had set the pinion angles right is very important in a irs. i havent had it fully aligned yet as i have pulled the stock motor to replace with a later p.i. motor and am replacing the k-member/a arms and entire front suspension and want to do a full 4 wheel align when everything is in before i go to the dyno.

but i will say it feels great. the car is better balanced, through the vastly reduced unsprung weight the suspension works faster,better,easier and communicates what going on much much better. soaks up bumps and imperfections in the road way better, it doesnt jarr and upset the whole car from hitting a bump on one side in the rear. no more grip then slip from the back end. i can apply power in a bumpy corner without it wanting to do an instant 180. handles/feels a lot more like a race car than a mustang. ive wanted to do a irs in a mustang for the longest time and it hasnt disapointed me. id do it again and would love to have the setup on all my mustangs.

a lot of people dont know that the irs was a part joint venture with saleen and john coletti/svt/ford with john providing the first prototype pieces to saleen to use on their sr racecars in 1996 and was optional on the street cars for a few years after(though i dont think any got them beyond the handfull of sr streetcars) the later production cobra irs stayed for the most part the same basic design as the early saleen/svt setup.
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Old 12-09-2012
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Looks nice!
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  #8  
Old 12-10-2012
hennie hennie is offline
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I have a complete IRS in the crate here stored for many years, And I was thinking about installing it in our 97-17B vert.
currently I am in the proces of selecting the parts, I need full chassis bracing since the frame and suspension is still 100% stock saleen, including flexing floors
I will go for the full tiltboogie parts for the irs bushing upgrade, now deciding which way I want to with the front end, steeda/maximum motorsport or griggs. I have eiback struts so maybe with the MM kit I can have these "coil overed"
One thing I know for sure it that I want to go with coilovers front and rear, I love being able to adjust it just as I like it to be.

Hennie
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2012
adam dawson adam dawson is offline
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yes the full tilt boogie gear is very very good quality, has been through lots of r+d and recommended by everybody. if you are gonna do it i suggest getting everything they have. the irs is good but has its weak points in stock form. also depends on which year irs you have as the later terminator spec ones are the best version.

the main drawbacks for the irs in stock form is the rear cover (eggshell thin and thats how the diff mounts on the back.) the rubber bushings that hold the diff and to lesser extent the control arm bushings and toe links. for years most people have used diff braces but thats just a band-aid. the new ford racing cover is the best. has bearing supports and is way thick, its also ready to plum a cooler and/or temp sensor.

i got the ft 5001 kit from ftbr, and i also got the deluxe toe links. if you get the ftbr kit and the ford racing cover, it needs to be minorly milled to clear the subframe because of the rear diff lowering mount (thats the only way to correct to pinion angle)
BUT ftbr offers the diff cover and also offers them milled to clear so its win win one stop shop. oh and if you get the cover, dont listen to fords instructions "fill" suggestion, they say to put in over a gallon of fluid! stock fill does fine.
all that and the irs will be bulletproof.

for the front end, mm stuff is really good. as im using a turbo system based around a specific k member, i had to get a gms k-member/arms/coilovers on bilsteins but its almost identical to mm. mm also makes great subframe connectors. true full length with many attachment points, i have them on my car and feel they would work really good on your vert. if you are gonna do coil overs on the back id recommend at the least a shock tower brace and maybe some stitch welding in the area of the shock mount. those little thin towers were never designed to handle the entire load of everything whereas the stock placement spring arrangement places most of the load on the spring perch on the framerails.

hope ive helped some, anything you would like to know just ask. have fun with your parts selection!
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